I visited the Town of Hvar for the first time two years ago in August. It was hot, super busy, and expensive. It’s a known fact that Hvar is 40% more expensive than the rest of Croatia, and this isn’t just for tourists. Locals suffer the consequences for the popularity of the island too.
Why? Simply because they can, people will pay. Hvar is desirable; it’s a hot spot for the travel elite and well-heeled. It’s one of the handfuls of Croatia places that cater to this type of clientele, with luxury hotels, villas, restaurants, and party scenes there for those who have the money to spend. Two years ago, when I visited Hvar for the first time, this was what appealed to me.
For the super-rich, Hvar is still relatively affordable and your money goes a lot further than it would in Ibiza or the South of France.
Quite often, when Town of Hvar is mentioned, it’s usually alongside celebrities, politicians, and the Royal Family, including Prince Harry, who partied into the sunrise in 2011. Its celebrity-friendly attitude has given public figures confidence to visit in peace with its paparazzi-free atmosphere.
The town of Hvar does cater to every type of tourist, from backpackers to those with deeper pockets. It’s also popular for young couples who are often seen dining by candlelight. There are hostels and cheap bar crawls because regardless of the price, Hvar is a town you should visit, it’s aesthetically beautiful, and there is plenty to do and see.
Even if you want to lay by the sea, Hvar has plenty of beaches and beach lounge bars. Hvar’s tourist season begins from the 1st of May to the end of October, with the busiest periods being July and August. Therefore, the best times to visit as suggested by the Tourist Board in May and September. I’d say that this applies anywhere on the Croatian coastline.
We arrived at Town Hvar by water taxi from Palmižana, where we slept overnight and were greeted with blue skies and the sun’s warmth to match. One thing you’ll notice right away when you start wandering around in the Town of Hvar on Hvar Island is the Venetian influence. The Venetians called Hvar home for almost 400 years at the beginning of the 15th Century, their dialect still visible in the language in modern-day as it is full of old Italian words.
The main square in the Town of Hvar is the biggest open square in Dalmatia at 4,500m2. Like most in Croatia, this square is like “the living room” of the town, often used for town gatherings, people watching from the cafes. It’s the most social part of the town.
Hvar is stringent in terms of how they expect their visitors to behave. I am sure there were a few too many rowdy bachelor parties in the past that rubbed the locals up the wrong way. Caught drinking and behaving disorderly in public? That’s a fine of 700€ in Hvar. Thinking of showing off your bikini bod while walking through Old Town? That will cost you 500€ or the equivalent of one month’s salary for the average Croatian. Hvar is beautiful and there to be enjoyed. Respect the rules.
For breathtaking and uninterrupted views of Hvar and the Pakleni Islands, you must visit Fortica, also known as the Fort in Hvar. It’s visible from the Riva, and there are two options to get up there. You can take a scenic walk which takes about 20minutes, or you can go by car or taxi (it costs about 100kn, which is a lot for Croatia so if you can walk, walk and save your money). Unfortunately, on the day that we went, a storm was brewing, and within an hour, those blue skies were completely taken over by storm clouds and bura winds. By the time we got to Fortica, it was pretty grey. Entry to the Fort is 30kn for adults.
What are my final thoughts on Hvar? I do believe at some point in your life you should visit at least once, it’s special. This visit was very different from the one of two years ago where I spent my days sipping cocktails in cabanas by the sea. These days I am more interested in the gastro scene, doing walking tours… less lounging around and more walking around and getting familiar with my country and its history, something that Hvar has an abundance of.
